In the Moroccan desert, the Saint Laurent man imposes his sobriety

A release of resources: never before has luxury been so much a hassle as in May, June and July 2022 to impress. After a two-year forced hiatus due to Covid-19, fashion brands have multiplied events in Europe and the US, where Asia is still inaccessible. Vuitton organized a show in a brutalist building in San Diego (California), Balenciaga took over the New York Stock Exchange, Dior showed in Seville, Dolce & Gabbana revealed Syracuse’s hidden treasures … At the end of this epic season, Saint Laurent made an impression with a spectacular show in the Moroccan desert in Agafay.

On Friday 15 July, the French brand gathered around 200 guests – journalists, influencers and customers – in Marrakech for its spring-summer 2023 men’s show. For the past three years, artistic director Anthony Vaccarello has presented his summer collection to men abroad, out of fashion. week schedule. “I had never made a man before I arrived in Saint Laurent, and I did not feel comfortable in Paris. Getting away from where I live gave me courage. It has become a habit to get away once a year to take people out of the Parisian fashion shows ”, explains the designer. Before the Agafay desert, he strolled in his world on a beach in Malibu (California), in 2019, then in an abandoned monastery in Venice in 2021. Marrakech is a logical destination for the brand: after discovering the city in 1966, founder Yves Saint Laurent settled down there for part of the year to escape the hustle and bustle of Paris. Today, Saint Laurent has a museum and a foundation there.

Saint Laurent.

Unlike other houses where the place and the collection are closely linked – in Seville, for example, Dior worked with local artisans to develop a resolute Andalusian wardrobe – Saint Laurent allows himself more freedom: “This is not a desert look”, warns Vaccarello. The collection is an extension of the one presented at Paris Women’s Fashion Week in March 2022, all in coats and evening jackets worn next to the skin, or on a light silk dress as a nightgown. A program that may seem surprising for a summer men’s collection, but which Anthony Vaccarello masters with skill.

Make opposites exist side by side

Some of the women’s looks are taken over as they are, like the first tuxedo, completely black or a long coat with a wide build. Others are easily reworked, an ivory dress turns into flowing satin trousers, blouses with a low alloy are lengthened. Low-cut wrap-over tops in velvet or jersey, tunics over trousers, boots with heels or even pumps complete this wardrobe filled with loans from the feminine register, but which by its sobriety remain largely masculine.

also read Romantic rock on the lagoon: Saint Laurent shows in Venice

The color palette is limited to black, sand and ivory. There are no jewels, few accessories except a few pockets, very graphic. Vaccarello does not seek to achieve genre fluidity with versatile pieces, but rather to make opposites exist side by side. These elegant, slender silhouettes are reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent’s, open shirt and high-waisted belted trousers, strolling Jemaa el-Fna Square and his muse, Betty Catroux, imperialist in her evening tuxedo. “It’s a return to classic chic, a man without aggression who does not try to convey a message and assumes who he is”sums up Anthony Vaccarello, who specifies that this is his “favorite collection”.

Saint Laurent.
Saint Laurent.

If sobriety is required for the clothes, it is not the same for the installation of the parade, which reserves surprises. In the middle of the Agafay desert, Saint Laurent dug a large circular water bath that the models circulate around. When the last silhouettes have passed, a monumental and luminous ring emerges from the oasis and rises vertically. “I wanted a door that opens into a new world”, says Vaccarello, who called on the English artist Es Devlin to realize his vision. Despite the funds used, the Kering group, which owns Saint Laurent, confirms that this parade achieves CO2 neutrality: the equipment is rented, reused, reused or given to local associations; the water from the oasis (not potable) is intended to irrigate the olive trees of the Agafay region. In 2022, luxury has never been so extravagant nor so aware of the consequences of its actions.

Also read: Article reserved for our subscribers In Syracuse, passion for couture according to Dolce & Gabbana

Leave a Comment